well if it does have a heating coil, it should be apart of the battery, most liion batterys which need heating coils (< -10c) have them as part of the pack so they can be heated internally

If that's the case, then removing the battery and running the camera on external power could possibly eliminate a lot of fogging issues. I may have a look into that. This would then leave the battery compartment empty for other uses like wireless A/V transmitter,delay timers, remote control receiver etc. without extending the size of the existing case.

Cheers R

If there is an actual battery warmer, it's inside the battery. The only thing attached to the backside of the case is the mic, BUS port, and a small piece of felt tape. The case rests on the backside of the PCB.

It makes sense for the battery to internally heated, probably Googling will find out how it works.

R

There is no dedicated heater inside either the camera or the battery! The chips get damn hot when running them at their limits and the battery does the same. When my shutter button was loose I worked out a deal to fix it, saved them a lot of money on shipping so it was in their best interest. Aside from the current draw causing heat in the battery, the imager generates a lot of heat, especially at higher frame rates. The encoder generates heat. The voltage regulator generates a lot of heat when the draw is high like it is in this camera when it is at full run. To convince me of anything else someone will need to show me the part. Pretty sure the CMOS is passively cooled too so the hotter the ambient temperature, the more noise in the image. I didn't get deep enough into the entire thing to determine all of the parts, but adding a heater to a battery power device does little but suck out the charge unless it is built to be used in the cold of space or in arctic areas. If anything is heating the battery, it is passive from the other components and heat is bad for these batteries so you would really only want it when it is really cold.

I'm certain there will be a lot more dissections in the near future as warranties run out.

Rambo wrote:someone needs to explore the guts of the Camera and confirm.

I doubt any of the components on the rear board are for the express purpose of heating. Heating is a waste of electricity on anything but a Mars exploration robot. The CPU is on that board, so plenty of spare processing heat comes from it.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost ... tcount=303

Got my breakout but it needs to be modified. The little guides on the back side of the connector do not line up between camera and connector, the camera side is slightly too narrow. I should be able to fix it with a cut off wheel.

It's very tight but it should fit in without trickery or cutting. Once you fit it in, you'll see the tight spots are along the little notches at each end of one side.

Found those already but the metal alignment "pins" are not spaced the same between connectors so I need to open up the breakout side. It's small but just large enough to prevent them from mating.

Here is gopro's response:
q: Is there any way to get more information on the bus connector?
a: Unfortunately, the pinout for the HD HERO bus port is proprietary.

q: Is it possible to get a video output signal from the rear bus connector to view the feed remotely?
a: We are developing an LCD screen which will mount to it which will allow live feedback from the HD HERO.

q: Is there any way to trigger the shutter button remotely?
a: At this time there is not method to trigger the HD HERO Remote.